i am gonna spend time over the next few posts to capture in writing stories about "fort road". the so-called "fort road" affectionately called by we gay men in singapore refers to a favourite gay haunt in singapore. this name is actually that of a small road next to katong park. over time, the name has been used to encompass the areas from katong park to the reclaimed land and the areas around it. i guess this was becos there was no other clear reference point that one can use given that it was nothing but reclaimed land. this place was reclaimed in the 70s and had been left undeveloped. in the early years before the east coast parkway (ecp) came about, the place was nothing but just clay and sand and almost totally barren. the fort road flyover over ecp was constructed in 1987/88. a few years after the construction of the flyover, a circle and a new long vehicle car park was constructed. "fort road" extends all the way to the sea and, at its furthest, is about 2km before one reaches the beach. to many gay men, thus, we refer to the various places around the area as...
- "fort road carpark" - this is the long vehicle park located next to the circle where many gay men cruise and pick up people. it remained popular until recent times where it was closed to facilitate the building of a new road.
- "fort road beach" - this refers to the beach used by many to tan in the nude. to some more seasoned people who frequent the beach, they also divide the reclaimed land into sub-sections using the tracks as the dividing line. so, you have "fort road beach on the left of the track (facing the beach direction)" (this is the larger piece and more heavily forested part of the reclaimed land), "fort road beach on the right of the track" (this is the smaller but more "happening" part of the beach). the beach along this sub-section includes a total of 3 breakwaters. it extends all the way to where marina barrage is today.
- "fort road forest" - this is not a forest per se, but the secondary vegetation that got established over time as the reclaimed land was allowed to settle. and as per usual plant invasion patterns, the reclaimed land has broadly 4 layers of vegetation. a first layer extending about 500m towards the sea and parallel to the highway. it comprised mainly of rhu (casuarina) trees (that is the basis of the name "tanjong rhu"). a second layer of largely barren land interspersed with isolated bushes of grass and small secondary vegetation trees (such as malastoma). a third layer of thick lallang that extends about 200m inland from the beach. this was where many gay men, who prefer a little more privacy, make out or tan in the nude amongst isolated patches of clear land. and finally, a fourth layer of beach-fronting trees and shrubs that comprised almost entirely of rhu (casuarina) trees and sea lettuce. this final layer is where gay men tan in the nude rather openly as well as frolicked in the sea.
- "fort road jogging track". this refers to the jogging track that stretches from the public toilet/ changing facilities (fort road toilet) all the way to the end of the east coast park jogging track (0km mark). the name continue to be used despite the clearing of the last 500m stretch to built the kallang-paya lebar expressway (kpe) interchange.
- "fort road flyover" refers to the east coast parkway flyover and can be accessed via the infamous katong park. most critically, the areas under the flyover is where many (yes, reeeeally, many) gay men would head to for anonymous sex as the place is near pitch dark, not unlike the dark rooms of saunas. it is not uncommon to find many used condoms under the flyover. this is also the location where a famous local comedian was run over by a car and died. many in the circle knew why he was there. anyway... yup, so this very famous flyover.
- "fort road circle" is the little circle created next to the flyover to regulate traffic flowing into east coast parkway service road. the circle also leads into the fort road carpark. in the late 90s, cars would drive around the circle to pick up guys who may possibly hang around along the jogging track that fringes the circle. this track was subsequently removed when a new road leading into the reclaimed land was built in the late 90s to facilitate the building of major projects around the area.
- "fort road toilet" is a toilet near the 1.5km mark of the east coast park. in a more generic sense, it refers to the immediate areas around the toilet. this is a popular congregation spot for many - both straight and gay - in the 90s. this is also the place where many, who is not comfortable with sex in the open, to do it in the privacy of the cubicles. it is less crowded these days.
- "fort road canal" refers to the canal that stretches from the fort road circle to the fort road toilet. there is a jogging track that runs parallel to the canal and as the track is not lit at night, many many gay men would hang around the canal and make out openly. it was especially crowded on weekends.
ok, these areas are the commonly known haunts for gay men. you probably can understand why fort road is such a significant place for gay men in singapore. it is the local mecca for us all. you cannot consider yourself a gay singaporean if you do not know fort road or you have not cruised at fort road. but that was the years leading up to the early 2000. fort road is slowly but surely disappearing. victim of development and perhaps, ironically, of the opening up of the gay scene in singapore. i will reflect this in the next post on fort road's evolution.










